Emerald Ash Borer ... tree treatment options

Started by TomM, August 07, 2013, 10:30:01 PM

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TomM

Hi,
I have a great ash tree in my front yard.  It is huge and I intend to have the tree treated to, hopefully, protect it from the ash borer. Evidently there are treatments you pour on the ground and something that can be injected into the ground or the tree. Sent messages to Certified Arborists tonight and hope to hear back from them soon.
Any thoughts or advice on this?
Seek excellence and truth instead of fame -John Prime
Courage is grace under pressure - Ernest Hemingway
Advocating "matside weigh-in" since 1997
"That's why they wrestle the matches"

bigoil

Do it sooner than later, that bug is everywhere.

bigG

They hang around like a bad fart. They are all over. If your tree gets infected, you'll probably have to adios it (sorry to say). In Sparta, they cut all the ash trees in the parks and put them into the local lake for fish habitat.

I moved into my house 14 years ago and have had a tree in the front yard that had leaves similar to an apple tree, so I have left it to grow. never a thing out of it. Right now, it is covered with pears. I'll bet this tree spent 20 years before this year's fruiting. Bizarre things, deez treez.
If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.

Todd

Our great long block is lined on both sides with beautiful trees, not sure if they're Emerald Ash (I don't know enough about arboriculture).  Last year the trees were labeled with dots, green or red.  I heard that the ones with green dots were ok and the red were slated for some sort of treatment and possible removal.  It would be a huge shame to have to remove the trees that line the block because that is one of the things many people visiting comment on about our sub division.  The scenery is like a beautiful landscape painting.  I'd hate to see it go.

Tree disease and invasive bugs suck!
"This page intentionally left blank".

Greco

Quote from: bigG on August 08, 2013, 07:33:32 AM
I moved into my house 14 years ago and have had a tree in the front yard that had leaves similar to an apple tree, so I have left it to grow. never a thing out of it. Right now, it is covered with pears. I'll bet this tree spent 20 years before this year's fruiting. Bizarre things, deez treez.

Pear trees can't self pollinate. So, it is probably due to someone planting another pear tree nearby.

imnofish

Quote from: Todd on August 08, 2013, 08:06:28 AM
Our great long block is lined on both sides with beautiful trees, not sure if they're Emerald Ash (I don't know enough about arboriculture).  Last year the trees were labeled with dots, green or red.  I heard that the ones with green dots were ok and the red were slated for some sort of treatment and possible removal.  It would be a huge shame to have to remove the trees that line the block because that is one of the things many people visiting comment on about our sub division.  The scenery is like a beautiful landscape painting.  I'd hate to see it go.

Tree disease and invasive bugs suck!

I have lived in two communities that lost all of their beautiful elm trees due to dutch elm disease.  It is sad to see the aftermath.  On the positive side, ash is easier to split than elm.
None are so hopelessly enslaved, as those who falsely believe they are free. The truth has been kept from the depth of their minds by masters who rule them with lies. -Johann Von Goethe

Some days it's hardly worth chewing through the restraints!

bigG

Quote from: Greco on August 08, 2013, 08:29:25 AM
Quote from: bigG on August 08, 2013, 07:33:32 AM
I moved into my house 14 years ago and have had a tree in the front yard that had leaves similar to an apple tree, so I have left it to grow. never a thing out of it. Right now, it is covered with pears. I'll bet this tree spent 20 years before this year's fruiting. Bizarre things, deez treez.

Pear trees can't self pollinate. So, it is probably due to someone planting another pear tree nearby.

My hypothesis is that the golden delicious that I planted is the cause for my current happiness. they do taste like a pearapple. Whether I'm wrong or right, I'm just happy with the love this tree finally gave me. It's been on the chopping block for years. Sweet salvation!
If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.

bigG

Quote from: imnofish on August 08, 2013, 11:01:19 AM
Quote from: Todd on August 08, 2013, 08:06:28 AM
Our great long block is lined on both sides with beautiful trees, not sure if they're Emerald Ash (I don't know enough about arboriculture).  Last year the trees were labeled with dots, green or red.  I heard that the ones with green dots were ok and the red were slated for some sort of treatment and possible removal.  It would be a huge shame to have to remove the trees that line the block because that is one of the things many people visiting comment on about our sub division.  The scenery is like a beautiful landscape painting.  I'd hate to see it go.

Tree disease and invasive bugs suck!

I have lived in two communities that lost all of their beautiful elm trees due to dutch elm disease.  It is sad to see the aftermath.  On the positive side, ash is easier to split than elm.

My God, you got that right. I had to cut and split a mega elm two years ago. Can't say I didn't earn that wood. (I split by hand, maul, and sledges and wedges) Dang shame to see such a majestic tree succumb like that. Ash isn't the best firewood for heat; but folks with the outdoor burners will be glad to use it. I still have the old basement woodstove. I'm not as lucky in burning green stuff. Doesn't work well in my deal. Six month minimum dry time.
If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.

imnofish

Quote from: bigG on August 09, 2013, 12:34:47 PM
Quote from: imnofish on August 08, 2013, 11:01:19 AM
Quote from: Todd on August 08, 2013, 08:06:28 AM
Our great long block is lined on both sides with beautiful trees, not sure if they're Emerald Ash (I don't know enough about arboriculture).  Last year the trees were labeled with dots, green or red.  I heard that the ones with green dots were ok and the red were slated for some sort of treatment and possible removal.  It would be a huge shame to have to remove the trees that line the block because that is one of the things many people visiting comment on about our sub division.  The scenery is like a beautiful landscape painting.  I'd hate to see it go.

Tree disease and invasive bugs suck!

I have lived in two communities that lost all of their beautiful elm trees due to dutch elm disease.  It is sad to see the aftermath.  On the positive side, ash is easier to split than elm.

My God, you got that right. I had to cut and split a mega elm two years ago. Can't say I didn't earn that wood. (I split by hand, maul, and sledges and wedges) Dang shame to see such a majestic tree succumb like that. Ash isn't the best firewood for heat; but folks with the outdoor burners will be glad to use it. I still have the old basement woodstove. I'm not as lucky in burning green stuff. Doesn't work well in my deal. Six month minimum dry time.

I used to heat with wood and split the same way that you do.  That's quite a workout.  For a few years, about 85% of what I burned was elm.  Man, that stuff is tough!
None are so hopelessly enslaved, as those who falsely believe they are free. The truth has been kept from the depth of their minds by masters who rule them with lies. -Johann Von Goethe

Some days it's hardly worth chewing through the restraints!

bigG

Uff! Burns great, though. Gimme red oak any day. Split it in the cold and it pops apart. I now have a source for thick slab wood and rough block cuts. The Amish have made my burning easy, $10 a pickup load.

For people who don't think this bug is a big deal, they should visit Michigan once and they may see the unreal destruction in certain forests. Scary scenes.
If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.

mickey

Quote from: howavi on August 07, 2013, 10:40:48 PM
Do it sooner than later, that bug is everywhere.

It's too late in the season now as the damage has been inflicted. We have a dozen ash trees on our church property and we had a arborist give a talk last Saturday. According to him the damage becomes evident in the spring when the larvae hatches. The exit wounds are "pin holes" which are barely detectable especially when high on the tree. Injection is the most viable and should be done in the fall (late September) and early spring.

TomM

mickey,
Sounds like you are in the know.
I am having an arborist out (hopefully) this week to do the injections.  I hope it is not too late and the tree has not been attacked yet.  It has a 60 inch girth trunk at chest height and stands over 30 feet... it is the kind that is round... not pointed.
This is earlier in the fall than you suggest .. vs. September ...
Is it really not worth it right now?
Seek excellence and truth instead of fame -John Prime
Courage is grace under pressure - Ernest Hemingway
Advocating "matside weigh-in" since 1997
"That's why they wrestle the matches"

mickey

Quote from: TomM on August 13, 2013, 07:31:24 PM
mickey,
Sounds like you are in the know.
I am having an arborist out (hopefully) this week to do the injections.  I hope it is not too late and the tree has not been attacked yet.  It has a 60 inch girth trunk at chest height and stands over 30 feet... it is the kind that is round... not pointed.
This is earlier in the fall than you suggest .. vs. September ...
Is it really not worth it right now?

That's a nice tree Tom. I think if someone has a valuable tree it's never too late. It already "feels" like fall. I know the eggs are supposed to be "laid" already but as for me I've wasted more money on foolish things!  I'd like to know what he is going to charge. We've been quoted anywhere from 20 to 30 bucks a tree depending on the circumference and one treatment doesn't do it. From what I've been told he'll need to come back in the spring and retreat and possibly again and again....

TomM

Quote from: TomM on August 14, 2013, 06:01:45 PM
I was originally told a 'treatment' was about $50.00 for a tree and it would be every year.  Was told about the injection method (professional application) and a president at a larger nursery told me "we sell it and you can put it on the ground around the tree  yourself."
I contacted the current head of my master gardener group (Dodge County) and she recommended contacting a certified arborist found on the Certified Arborist Association web page.  I emailed three (the closest ones to Watertown).  The Madison one told me he does not treat trees and to check the CAA website.  One did not reply.  The one in Beaver Dam did call me and they are supposed to come out this week... I HOPE THIS WEEK...
I is to be done each year.  The charge from this guy is $6.50 an inch of the circumference measured at chest height.  My tree is almost 60 inches around at that height, so that would be $390.00... ?  I think I might be off on that amount... I thought it was going to be about $130.00 total... I will have to call him back... aaargh...

D'OH.. I forgot.. that inch number (in my case 60 inches total) is divided by three... so it is 20 inches times $6.50... equaling about $130.00/year...
Seek excellence and truth instead of fame -John Prime
Courage is grace under pressure - Ernest Hemingway
Advocating "matside weigh-in" since 1997
"That's why they wrestle the matches"

TomM

Update:
Tree was treated today at 1:00pm.  (Thursday, August 15, 2013)
I was previously instructed to water the tree (used soaker hose for three days.. about an hour  or more of water per day) and place mulch in a five foot span around trunk of tree.  Mission accomplished!
Guy arrived about 1pm today.  Injected approximately one gallon of a milky white liquid into the ground using a syringe (huge syringe) type device about three feet long.  Pushed inch wide needle type device about four/five inches into the softened ground in spots about one foot apart, beginning at outer edge of mulch and working inward, spiraling towards trunk.  He said it is the same liquid used to place on ground as the other type of application.
IMO, you could treat your own trees if you buy the substance.  The syringe did nothing more than go into the ground about five inches, so you could spike a hole in the ground with a stake and just pour some liquid in the hole.
Instructed to not water for a couple days after treatment and repeat next spring.  I may do it myself next spring.
The charge total was $137.16 for a tree sixty inches around at chest height.
Seek excellence and truth instead of fame -John Prime
Courage is grace under pressure - Ernest Hemingway
Advocating "matside weigh-in" since 1997
"That's why they wrestle the matches"